Showing posts with label Sukhumvit Soi 4. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sukhumvit Soi 4. Show all posts

Monday, January 5, 2009

Thai People and Common Sense

Having lived in Thailand for a number of years, I am convinced that Thai people lack the common sense gene. I love them, I love living here, but every farang here has seen many examples of seemingly stupid behaviour, ranging from sidewalks that are broken and barely usable to the recent tragedy at the Santika Club on New Year's Eve.

I live very close to the Nana Entertainment Plaza on Sukhumvit Soi 4, so tonight I walked around before it opened at 7:00 PM. I was checking to see if that complex had any safety features. I didn't expect much and I didn't find much.

If you haven't been there, allow me a moment to describe it. There is a single entrance to a U-shaped complex with bars on 3 levels. The first level is the ground floor; there is no basement. The structure is concrete, although there is lots of wood around. At the entrance, there are bars on opposite sides of the lane, and both are made of wood. I could not see any sprinkler system, fire hose, alarm system, not even a water pail.

I would guess there are about 30-35 bars, ranging from small to huge. All of the bars have decorations of some sort inside, they are not bare concrete. At the Santika, some people died because of the poisonous fumes from the burning decorations.

Wandering around on the two upper levels, and peeking into some of the bars, which had doors open, but were not operating yet (because it was before 7:00 PM), I saw zero evidence of safety features.

No alarms, no fire hoses, no sprinklers, not a single extinguisher in evidence.

And there is only one way out of the complex, and that's through the small lane at the front. There is often a truck parked in that lane, presumably making deliveries, and there are street vendors as well.

There don't appear to be any other entrances/exits to this complex, but I do know that there are metal fire escapes on the outside at the right. I know because I used them once when the police raided the short-time hotel in which I was passing a short time and I had to use that metal platform and climb back through a window into one of the ladyboy bars. Got some funny looks that night, as I came out of the ladyboy dressing room and walked in front of the stage in full view of 20 or so patrons. It's one of the stranger things I have done in my life.

What happened at Santika is tragic. But if a fire ocurred at Nana Plaza, there would likely be 10 times as many deaths because it's much larger, there's no safety equipment or emergency equipment of any kind, and there's only one way out.

I wonder if Bangkok city government (Bangkok Metropolitan Administration) will now clamp down on safety; clearly nothing has been done so far. I suspect most commercial buildings, other than those built by Western companies, are lacking in basic safety features.

I live on a narrow soi, one lane wide. As you probably know, traffic here drives on the left. Except motorcycles, which go wherever they please. I have seen many instances where a car or truck is trying to manoeuver around the tight corners, and a motorcycle comes roaring up and squeezes in between the vehicle and the concrete building at the corner. Common sense would say, stop and wait 30 seconds until there is more clearance, but like I said, that gene is missing.

Walking along the sidewalk near Nana Plaza in the evening is a joke. In too many places, street vendors have blocked the path, leaving a very narrow space. When two Westerners approach from opposite sides, one always gives way; it's the polite thing to do. Whenever I have done this, invariably two or three Thai people who were walking behind me refuse to stop, and squeeze through the extremely narrow opening, which is even narrower because there's a hulking great farang coming at them. No common sense.

Today I was walking along the bike path which runs between the train tracks and a service road. My apartment is within a few meters of the service road. I discovered a while ago that it was better to walk along the bike path because it is asphalt and relatively smooth and marked down the middle with a dotted line, indicating two lanes. If you walk on the right side, bikes and motorcycles drive on the left and there is no conflict. That's right, motorbikes use the bicycle path. This afternoon, however, I was walking along that path, keeping to the right, on my way to Ploenchit Centre. Suddenly there was a loud beep right behind me. I jumped into the ditch at the right, and looked back, and nearly fell over. There were two cars driving along this narrow bike path. No common sense.

A week ago, I was walking along the train track, and was amazed at the condition of the ties. They are very old and rotted. In many places, the spikes that hold the track to the ties are missing; the wood is in such bad condition that the spikes have simply fallen out. In this picture, taken just a few metres from Sukhumvit, the girl has her feet on a tie. Look where that tie meets the rail at the left. There should be a spike there, but there isn't. These ties are in relatively good condition; in other places, they should have been replaced 10 years ago.

There are a dozen trains a day along this track. One wonders how long it will be before a train causes the rails to move apart an extra few centimetres and there is a derailment. Just on the other side of Sukhumvit, many people live within 2 meters of the track. If a derailment occurred there, their houses would be destroyed and many people would die.

When I first came to Thailand in 1988, the traffic was much less and the pollution was ten times worse. One day, I was in a taxi that was driving along Ploenchit at a good clip, maybe 60 km an hour; traffic was light. I was in the back seat. When we got to the intersection with the Erawan Shrine, the driver took both hands off the steering wheel, looked at the Buddha in the shrine and made a wai. This took 20 seconds or so. We're travelling 60 kph straight ahead and he's looking 90 degrees to the left. No common sense.

There's no doubt that living in Thailand is an experience. I just wish the people could learn a little common sense.

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Tuesday, December 9, 2008

Back to Bangkok

A couple of weeks ago, I made the decision to walk away from Canada and my ever-increasing debts, and return to Bangkok, where I can live on my small Canadian pension. I have enough frequent flyer miles with Air Canada's Aeroplan FF program that I could get to Bangkok for free. But then the People's Alliance for Democracy (P.A.D.), which as far as I can see, wants to destroy democracy and impose military rule along with a few elected people, closed the airports.

I spent the first night in Montreal, and that was a hassle… it took 90 minutes to check into the airport Holiday Inn because there was a huge crowd of people, mostly Muslims, ahead of me. Apparently a parking garage had collapsed in the city, and a man was killed. The Red Cross evacuated everyone to two hotels after they had stood around for 8 or 10 hours. They did not notify the hotels, just packed people into buses, drove them to the hotels and unloaded all these people with a certificate saying the Red Cross would pay. The Holiday Inn could not cope… they only had 3 people at the reception desk, but could have used 5 more. Eventually they found 2 more, and after 90 minutes, I got to register.

The plane left at 8 AM next morning, (I had to get up at 5, of course), made it to Vancouver OK. Watched 2 movies during the flight. Air Canada charged me $2 for using their earphones; cheap bastards. Sandwiches also cost money, but the soft drinks were free. Air Canada is definitely the worst airline for service and most expensive I have ever used, bar none, and I have flown all over the world for more than 40 years.

Walked a couple of miles inside the Vancouver airport terminal to change planes, then flew to Tokyo, which I think was an 11 hour flight, I forget. Watched 3 movies. Food and drinks free, earphones free. Flight was ANA, a Japanese airline.

When I arrived at Tokyo Narita airport, a smiling hostess handed out flyers to the 5 or 6 of us going to Bangkok saying the Bangkok airport was closed, and ANA recommended returning to my home country. I didn’t think much of that idea.

Checked into the Holiday Inn with no problems. There was free Internet access, so I used my computer and Skype to make phone calls and try and re-route my Tokyo to Bangkok flight. Could not get through to ANA’s call centre, so the next morning I took Holiday Inn’s free shuttle back to the airport and went to the ANA counter and basically got nowhere. Flight was cancelled and they would not pay compensation for the night at the Holiday Inn. Went up 3 levels of management, smiles all the way, but no satisfaction.

Back to the hotel, and using Skype, called Aeroplan because these flights were free, using my frequent flyer points. Spent half an hour waiting on hold, but eventually got through to the Aeroplan call centre. Friendly lady was able to change my flight from Tokyo to Bangkok to Tokyo to Singapore at no charge (money or points). Spent half an hour researching hotels in Singapore using the web, then booked into a cheap 2 star hotel in the historic Geylang area of Singapore, which I had never visited in my 8 or 10 visits to Singapore.

Next day flew to Singapore, watching another 3 movies, and arrived at the hotel around 9 PM or so. Was surprised to see at least 50 or 60 beautiful young women lined up along the sidewalks around the hotel. Checked in, and discovered the first 5 floors were short-time rentals, and top 3 floors were regular hotel. Being a 2 star hotel, the room was basic but adequate. Wandered out onto the street, got propositioned at least 20 times, and found my way to a Thai restaurant where I had Thai food and a Pepsi for less than $5.

Singapore is very near the equator, so it’s hot and humid, 24 hours a day. The incessant cough that had plagued me for 18 months in Canada vanished. Sinuses working fine. Seems I am now allergic to cold climates.

Next day I bought an Internet access card for $5 and spent a long time figuring out how to get from Singapore to Bangkok, the main airport in BKK still being closed. Best I could do was book a flight to Phuket, which is 800 km from Bangkok. There is boat and bus service from Phuket, but no train; nearest train station is a 4 or 5 hour bus ride away. Bus takes 14 hours, which I did not really want to do.

Next day, I got to the airport with several hours to kill, so I went to Singapore Airlines and asked if I could fly into U-Tapao military airport as I had read that Thailand had opened that airport, and it turns out they had just scheduled some flights. So I booked a flight from Singapore to U-Tapao; they said there was a free bus service from U-Tapao to Bangkok. Then I tried cancelling my Singapore to Phuket flight, which was with Silk Air, a subsidiary of Singapore Airlines. They don’t have a counter at the airport. I could not get through to their call centre and there was no hold queue. However, Singapore Airport provides free wireless Internet access throughout the terminal, so I checked in for my flight, had lunch and set up my laptop with Skype and kept re-dialing until finally I got through. Yes, they could cancel the flight but it would take 6 weeks to get the refund. Funny how these airlines are always quick to take your money but have a great big problem with refunds.

The flight to U-Tapao was mostly empty, maybe 50 people in a plane that could hold 400. Short flight, too, less than an hour. No facilities at U-Tapao, which looks like something from the late 50s or early 60s. There were at least 35 or 40 planes parked on the tarmac. Bus ride to Bangkok took 2.5 hours, a lot longer than I expected, and they dropped us at a 5 star hotel, the Sofitel, which is not far from the area I was staying. A 20 minute taxi ride later, and I was checking into my hotel, the Woraburi on Sukhumvit Soi 4.

Next day, Pad (the lady that owns and runs Thai Culture Publishing) and Kik (former assistant) showed up and we looked at several apartments; settled on one a half kilometre behind the Woraburi for 6000 baht a month, which is Cdn$218, using today’s exchange rate. Wireless Internet is an extra 500 baht ($18) a month. The room comes with a bed and a wardrobe, and a bathroom, which is pretty basic, and a small balcony. There is air conditioning, but no hot water, and no bathtub; as usual with cheap Thai places, the shower head is on the wall and the bathroom itself is the shower stall.

Next day, Kik arranged for a van and 2 guys and they moved some of the office stuff from Pad’s place and the office (which is now closed) to my room, so I now have a desk and chairs, etc. There is no fridge or hot plate.

Yesterday I went with Pad to HomePro, and we picked up a flash water heater and some expanding shower curtain rods and a shower curtain. Installing the heater was not a big deal; I had to use the expanding rods because the apartment management won’t allow holes to be drilled in the tiling. It works fine, but the hoses are too short; today I will go back and get longer hoses.

Living here is great. Food is cheap and there are many restaurants. Everyone is friendly. I can breathe properly with no hacking.

However, it’s obvious that tourism is way down. Sukhumvit Soi 4 is a tourist area, but tourists are few and far between. This is high season now, but there is nobody here; like Bali after the bombings, the place is devoid of people spending money.

My Thai visa is 3 months long. The goal is to switch to marketing mode and promote the 27 web sites I now have, with emphasis on the Thai sites. Hopefully, this will bring in enough income to pay Pad and re-establish the office. I have discussed with Pad what I want her to do, which is basically research each subject and write articles (in Thai) about various aspects of Thai culture; we made a list of 20 broad subject areas. We will post those to her Thai blog; then I will translate them into English and post them to my sites as well as submit them to ezines for wide distribution. In this way, we should get a lot of visitors to our sites and thereby increase the revenue.

I’m starting from scratch (again) but feel excited about it; my depression is completely gone. This is where I belong. Sphere: Related Content